This article is for climbers with limited time who want to make the most of their stay on Shodoshima and climb as many high-quality routes as possible.
Below is a list of the routes I personally climbed at Yoshida Crag, one of the main climbing areas on the island.
For each route, I’ve added my personal rating (★) and honest impressions, focusing on how the route felt, not just how it graded.
I hope this helps you choose routes wisely — and if it does, I’d be happy if you explore my other articles too.
1.Yoshida Crag-Overview
Rock type: Granite
Number of routes: 100+
Grades: Mostly 5.9 – 5.11 (French 5c – 7b), with a few harder lines
Route length: Short to medium
Protection: Mostly bolted sport routes. Bolt spacing is very close and feels safe, even for visitors. Some mixed routes with natural protection, but cams are rarely required.
Rope: 50m is sufficient for most routes. A few routes require a 60m rope.
Quickdraws: 10+ recommended (routes are short, but many have frequent bolts)
Climbing here is technical granite climbing — slabs, friction, mantles, balance, and precise footwork.
Grades feel technical rather than powerful.
2.Highly Recommended Routes
● Kimochin Yoka (6a / 6a+)
A fun mixed route with bolts and natural gear, featuring a mantle finish and great views at the top.
“Kimochin Yoka” is a Japanese phrase meaning “it feels good.”
True to its name, the route feels open, relaxed, and wonderfully refreshing.
● Raijin (6c / 6c+)
Probably the most popular route at Yoshida.
It starts with face climbing and finishes on slab.
The final slow, committing move is exciting and memorable.
● S-Line (7a+ / 7b)
My personal favorite.
A classic friction route with varied movement: jamming, traversing, mantles, and good length.
A very complete and satisfying climb.
3.Full List of Routes I Climbed
■Kimochin-yoka Rock
・S-Keipe 5.9 (5c/6a) ★
A gentle mixed route with bolts and natural protection.
You can climb all the way to the top, making it ideal for relaxed climbing.
The crux comes after moving onto the left arete near the top.
・Runaway 10a (6a/6a+) ★★
Great as a warm-up, especially if you haven’t climbed granite in a while.
A pure slab route that reminds you how much footwork matters.
・Kurikuri Panda 11a (6b+) ★★
Short but fun.
Looks like a slab, but turns out to be surprisingly balance-oriented.
・Kimochin-yoka 10a (6a/6a+) ★★★
“Kimochin Yoka” means “it feels good” in Japanese — and this route truly lives up to its name.
A mixed route with bolts and natural protection, including mantles and enjoyable movement throughout.
You climb all the way to the top, and the view makes it even better.
■ Olive Rock
・Raijin 11b (6c/6c+) ★★★
Probably the most popular route at Yoshida.
The first half has good holds, but the final slab section is the real challenge.
That long, committing move near the top is thrilling.
I wiped my sweaty hands on my pants more than once before stepping up.
In Japan, when climbers hesitate and shuffle their feet on slabs, we call it “sewing with a machine.” Yes — I definitely did some sewing here.
・Claris 12b (7b/7b+) ★
Crimps, crimps, and more crimps.
The first half is very reachy, with a height-dependent crux, and even clipping feels serious.
Honestly, I couldn’t figure out the movement and failed to redpoint it.
My motivation broke before the route did.
・S-Line 12a (7a+/7b) ★★★
The most fun route for me at Yoshida Crag.
A brilliant friction route that offers everything:
good holds at the start, jamming, traversing, and a mantle finish.
I managed to link everything despite bleeding hands from the jamming —and then fell right at the mantle. I couldn’t help but shout. I redpointed it on the next go.
Great length, great movement, deeply satisfying climbing.
⚠ Rope drag can be significant — long draws and slings are recommended.
・Setouchi Present 13a (7c+) ★★★
A rare overhanging route for Yoshida.
Developed relatively recently by Yuji Hirayama, one of Japan’s most renowned climbers.
Big holds, side pulls, and crimps — all positive, yet strangely draining.
Even though the holds are good, the route slowly sucks your power and leaves you breathing hard.
■ Bemu Rock
・Raika 11a (6b+) ★★★
Short but very fun.
A mix of crimps and slab climbing.
Only four bolts, but the movement is slow and thoughtful.
The real crux comes after the final bolt.
・Uchinomi Spirits 11b (6c/6c+) ★★
A pleasant route with continuous good holds.
The view is beautiful, and the climbing simply feels good.
Honestly, it feels much easier than the grade suggests.
・Try & Go 11b (6c/6c+) ★★
I prefer this one slightly over Uchiumi Spirits.
A tricky start, followed by a rightward line into face climbing.
The upper section feels like climbing stairs — comfortable and enjoyable.
■Yugure Rock
・The Third Man 10c (6b) ★
Easy but fun, with mantles.
You link big holds and perform two mantle-like moves.
Simple, but entertaining.
■Cube Rock
・Kobayashi 2 5.9 (5c/6a) ★
A stair-step slab.
Short, with only three bolts.
4.Other- climbing area -Insubong
Overview
Exposed and scenic climbing
Fewer routes, but very high quality
Worth visiting for the location alone
・Shodoshima Monogatari 5.10b (6a+/6b) ★★
A straightforward route.
Perfect for warming up.
・Kaichi 5.10c (6b) ★★★
A route where you can fully enjoy slab climbing.
Bolt spacing isn’t too far, so even on slab you can commit with confidence.
The start is especially difficult.
・Belle Isle 5.11b (6c/6c+) ★★★
A granite face climb with varied movement.
The view from the top-out is outstanding.
The most popular route at this crag.
For access information and details on other crags, please check the link below.
